Archive for September, 2009

100% Whole Wheat No-Knead Bread, One More Time

Wednesday, September 30th, 2009

Week Forty: One More Time

ww-nkb-omt

Jim Lahey’s no-knead method is so amazingly simple that it’s quite tempting to fiddle with it, making substitutions here and there, pushing the limits.  One of the more obvious changes is to swap the white flour for whole wheat.  It’s more nutritious, just as easy, and surely there can’t be that much difference, can there?   How hard could it be?

Plenty hard, as I found out.  Merely changing the flour to whole wheat resulted in a gray, flat loaf, with a gummy texture that tasted vaguely like despair.  So, to remedy that failure, I borrowed a few tricks from the best no-knead variation I made, Cook’s Illustrated’s almost no-knead bread, plus one from King Arthur Flour’s whole wheat sandwich bread.  I was unwilling to add any white flour back in, as I still wanted a 100% whole wheat bread, though that certainly would’ve helped things quite a lot.

For this attempt, I used half beer and half water for the liquid, similar to almost no-knead bread.  As suggested by the King Arthur recipe, I added a splash of orange juice, not for flavor, but to offset the bitterness that some whole wheat flours have.  This also provided a little acid, so I didn’t feel it necessary to add any vinegar, as the Cook’s Illustrated recipe does to improve the flavor.  I kept the method the same as the original no-knead bread, for consistency.

The result was absolutely improved.  That unappealing gray color was gone, replaced by a proper autumn-leaf brown.  The crumb was beautifully open, and the domed top spoke volumes about the far better oven-spring.  Flavor-wise, this bread was the clear winner between it and its predecessor.  The crust was appropriately thick, and the interior was tender.

However, this still isn’t the ultimate 100% whole wheat no-knead bread.  While the flavor was good, the texture was a bit coarse, lending a dryness to each bite.  The modifications I made to the recipe made worlds of difference, but it’s not quite there yet.  This whole wheat bread is good, and will certainly fit the bill if you must have a whole wheat no-knead bread, but there are finer whole-grain examples that take a shorter amount of time.

ww-nkb-omt-2

 

100% Whole Wheat No-Knead Bread, One More Time
Adapted from Jim Lahey, via The New York Times
Makes 1 round loaf

13½ ounces (3 cups) whole wheat flour, plus extra for dusting
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1½ teaspoons salt
3/4 cup water
3/4 cup light-flavored beer
2 tablespoons orange juice

1.  In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, yeast, and salt.  Add the water, beer, and orange juice, and stir until blended; the dough will be shaggy and sticky.  Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let dough sit at room temperature for at least 12 and up to 24 hours (but preferably about 18).

2.  The dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles.  Line a 10 inch skillet or any wide, shallow bowl with a large square of parchment paper.  Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself a few times, until it forms a roughly round shape.  A bench scraper helps greatly with this step.

3.  Transfer the dough to the parchment-lined skillet, and dust heavily with wheat bran or additional flour.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.  When it is ready, the dough will not readily spring back when poked gently with a fingertip.

4.  At least 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 500º F.  Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (see note 1 below) in oven as it heats.  When the dough is ready, carefully remove the pot from the oven.  Transfer the dough to the pot by lifting the parchment by the edges, and carefully and quickly lowering the dough into the pot.  Shake the pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed, but don’t worry about it too much; it will straighten out as it bakes.

5.  Cover the pot with the lid and transfer the pot to the oven.  Reduce the oven temperature to 425º F, and bake for 30 minutes.  Remove the lid and bake uncovered for an additional 15 to 30 minutes, or until the loaf is well-browned.  An instant-read thermometer should register around 205º to 210º F when fully baked.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool thoroughly, discarding the parchment.

 

Notes:
1.  Any heavy covered pot will do, be it cast iron, enamel, Pyrex, stainless steel, or ceramic.  As long as it’s oven-safe, it seems anything will do the trick.  If your chosen vessel has no lid, or if you’re concerned about the oven-safety of it, simply use aluminum foil instead, pressing it tightly (and carefully) around the preheated pot.

2.  My liquids (water, beer, and orange juice) were cold when I added them.  I’m not sure if that makes a whole lot of difference or not; proceed at your own discretion.

Ensaïmadas, One More Time

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

Week Forty: One More Time

ensaimadas-2-omt

Generally speaking, I fall into the “Cook’s Illustrated” school of thought, which is to say that I prefer to produce the ideal example of whatever item I happen to be cooking.  (Though who wouldn’t?)  But the difference between me and most home cooks is that I feel this preference as a keen need, rather than a simple want.  I am rarely satisfied to cook from a single recipe, especially for this blog.  I research voraciously, comparing descriptions, ingredients, methods, photos, and any other information I can get my hands on, in order to turn out a more perfect what-have-you.

You see, in my mind, I only have one shot at it, and I’d really rather not have to try a second time, or even think about the stupid thing again if I really dislike it.  The research phase is crucial to me, no matter if I’m making croissants or pimiento cheese sandwiches.  I need to know, before I get into it, if what I’m doing is okay, and I like to have some assurance of success for my efforts.

This is where I went wrong with ensaïmadas the first time around.  They came up in the middle of a busy week, I had unearthed what seemed like a nice enough recipe, and so I neglected the research part before baking them.  Imagine my chagrin when a minute’s search, whilst writing the post, revealed that what I had made were surely fine little pastries, but were certainly not ensaïmadas.

Real ensaïmadas, as made in Mallorca, are thinly-rolled rounds of dough, coated with lard (oh, yes), rolled up, spiralled, and baked into a laid-back version of a croissant.  Flaky is a key word here, and my original attempt hadn’t a flaky bone in its body.  Writing fancy prose about them soothed my wounded pride, but it couldn’t erase those silly rolls that had been thrust, aghast, out of sight into the recesses of the freezer.

This time around, I was determined to correct my hasty oversight.  I learned what they were, inside and out, and I was resolved to making a decent ensaïmada, come hell or high water.  The only deviation from a truly authentic recipe was the substitution of butter for lard, which was purely out of necessity.  I’ve no clue where to buy properly rendered lard, and I wasn’t about to render my own, as much as I devote myself to this project.  And forget those tubs of hydrogenated lard in the “International Foods” aisle; you might as well use Crisco.  I understand that many Mallorcan bakeries are now making them with butter, much to the dismay of purists, so I felt secure with this substitution.

As it turned out, the dough I had was nearly spot-on, it was the method alone that needed tweaking.  Rolling the dough out as thinly as possible is key to getting the flakiest ensaïmadas; these are made individually, no larger than a biscuit, and are quite flaky, but for the absolutely flakiest version, you can roll the dough out into one giant round, spread with all the butter, and make one huge ensaïmada instead.

These gorgeous little pastries end up with a fantastic flavor, buttery and lightly sweet.  The honey-colored crust is just barely crisp, and flakes away to reveal an incredibly tender interior.  Need I tell you that the center is the softest and most delicious bite of all?  I didn’t think so.  Served with a cup of good and strong coffee, the only worries you’ll have are keeping the powdered sugar from snowing all over your clothes.

Success?  I should say so.

ensaimadas-omt
 

Ensaïmadas, One More Time
Adapted from Bread, by Christine Ingram and Jennie Shapter
Makes 16

1 large egg, at room temperature
1/2 cup milk, at room temperature
1 tablespoon olive oil
9½ ounces (2 cups) unbleached bread flour, plus extra for rolling
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons instant yeast
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
Powdered sugar, for dusting

1.  In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk the egg until well blended.  Add the milk and olive oil, and whisk until combined.  Add the flour, sugar, salt, and yeast.  Using the dough hook, mix at low speed until all the flour is moistened and a rough dough forms.  Increase the speed to medium-low and knead for about 5 minutes, or until smooth and elastic.

2.  Transfer the dough to a lightly-oiled bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature until nearly doubled in size, about 1 to 1½ hours.

3.  Turn the dough out onto an un-floured work surface.  Knead a few times to deflate, dusting lightly with flour as needed to prevent sticking.  Divide the dough into 16 even pieces, form each into a round ball, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let rest for 5 minutes.  Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

4.  Keeping unused pieces of dough covered, roll each piece of dough out into a flat circle, as thinly as possible, and dusting with only enough flour to prevent sticking.  If the dough resists, cover and let rest while working on remaining pieces.  The dough should be very thin.

5.  After you roll each piece out to its maximum thinness, spread 1/2 tablespoon of the softened butter onto the surface.  Roll up fairly tightly into a rope, and set aside, covered loosely with plastic wrap, as you work on the remaining pieces.  When finished with all pieces, let all rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

6.  Pick up each rope and gently pull to lengthen the rope slightly.  Coil each rope into a spiral, on the prepared baking sheet.  Tuck the tail end underneath.  Repeat with remaining ropes.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature until doubled in size, about 1 hour.  Preheat the oven to 375º F.

7.  Bake the spirals at 375º F for 10 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown.  Remove from the oven and immediately dust with powdered sugar, ideally by sifting the sugar over the hot bread.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool.  Serve warm.

 

Notes:
1.  Ensaïmadas will keep at room temperature for about a day.  They may also be frozen and reheated in a 350º F oven for about 5 minutes, or until heated through.

Tortas de Aceite, One More Time

Monday, September 28th, 2009

Week Forty: One More Time

tortas-redone-3

Can you believe it?  It’s already the end of the third quarter!  The year is mostly done, and soon this project will be over.  Not to spoil the surprise, but I do plan to continue blogging next year, but with a less bread-centric theme.  Details of that will come as soon as I iron them out.

But for now, the fact that it’s the last week of the tri-monthly period means one thing: it’s the week I get to re-do all of my failures over the past eleven weeks.  The problem with strictly making one different recipe every day is that I don’t get a second chance if anything goes wrong.  Therefore, I’ve set this week aside to go back, fix what went wrong, or perfect things that were just a little bit off.  Today, I’m revisiting tortas de aceite, those exquisite Spanish flatbreads.

The first time I made these, I rolled them too thinly, and they puffed up like crazy, making hard cracker balloons.  They were tasty, but they sure weren’t what I was envisioning.  You couldn’t take one bite without losing half of the bread in a shower of flaky crumbs.  This was, of course, unacceptable.  Additionally, that recipe only made six breads, not nearly enough for how flavorful the dough was.

tortas-redone-2

without sugar

This time around, I increased the amount of dough, to make a respectable amount of tortas (about sixteen), and I rolled the dough more thickly.  The thicker dough made for a more substantial cracker, not so much the easily-failing wafer I had previously created.  The same seductive balance of olive oil, sesame, anise, and a touch of lemon for brightness was there, but was bolstered this time around with the complexity of an overnight-risen starter.

As a side note, I’m not really big on the whole “sweet and savory” combination of flavors, and I tend firmly towards the savory in general; so the first time I made these tortas, I decided against a sugar topping.  Sugared or not, either way is just as traditional as the other.  This time around, I decided to sugar just a few of them, mainly to see what it would taste like, not expecting to think much of it.

Um, you should use the sugar.  Without, they were good.  With, they were fantasically amazing.  The breads get baked with the sugar dusted over the raw dough, which cooks before the sugar has a chance to melt.  So, to melt the sugar into the bread, they are quickly passed under a hot broiler, which caramelizes the sugar, and turns the bread into something really extraordinary.

And the smell!  The heavenly smell of fruity olive oil, with hits of tart anise and nutty sesame, all under a blanket of the honey of bubbling sugar, was tantalizing, plain and simple.  Of all the improvements I made to this recipe, none of them frivolous, the sugar topping was the one that sent the tortas right over the top.  Yes, you can make these without the sugar, and they are delicious and worth every little effort; but take it from this savory-palated cook, you should use the sugar.

tortas-redone

with sugar

Tortas de Aceite
Adapted from La Cocina de Mama: The Great Home Cooking of Spain, by Penelope Casas, via Wild Yeast
Makes sixteen 4 inch rounds

For the starter:
5 ounces (1 cup plus 2 tablespoons) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1/2 cup water, at room temperature

For the final dough:
1 1/2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted and cooled
1/2 cup olive oil
1 whole star anise
Zest of 1/2 lemon, in wide strips
1 tablespoon anise liqueur (such as Pernod, Anisette, or Herbsaint)
5 ounces (1 cup plus 2 tablespoons) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
1/3 cup granulated sugar, approximately, for finishing

1.  For the starter, whisk together the flour, salt, and yeast.  Add the water and using a spatula, mix in the bowl for 1 to 2 minutes, to develop the gluten slightly.  The dough should not be soupy, nor should it be too stiff.  Cover with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature for about 8 hours, or overnight.  If you need more time, let rise at room temperature for 1 hour, then refrigerate for up to 3 days.

2.  If your starter has been chilled, remove it from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature.  In a small skillet over medium-high heat, toast the sesame seeds until they are fragrant and begin to pop, about 3 minutes.  Remove from the heat, and let cool.  If you like, you can grind up them a bit in a mortar and pestle, or a small food processor, though it’s not necessary.

3.  Meanwhile, heat the olive oil, star anise, and lemon zest in a small pan over medium-high heat, until the peel curls up and just begins to color.  Remove from the heat, and let steep until cool.  Strain out and discard the zest and star anise.

4.  In the bowl of a food processor, combine the starter, the cooled sesame seeds, the cooled oil, the anise liqueur, and the flour.  Using the dough hook, mix on low speed until well-incorporated.  Add additional flour by spoonfuls if needed; the dough should be very soft, oily, and shiny, but not soupy or slack.  It should clear the sides of the bowl, and be evenly-colored throughout.

5.  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature for 45 to 60 minutes, or until slightly risen.  Preheat the oven to 375º F, and position two racks evenly towards the middle of the oven, one in the top third and one in the bottom third.  Line two baking sheet with parchment paper.

6.  Turn the dough onto an unflouredwork surface, deflating it, and divide it into 16 even pieces.  Roll each piece into a round ball, keeping the unused pieces covered.  Dusting with just enough flour to prevent sticking, roll each ball out with a rolling pin into a 4 inch round.  Transfer each round to a prepared baking sheet, and sprinkle lightly with sugar.  Cover loosely with parchment paper, and let sit for 10 minutes, or until slightly puffy.

7.  Bake at 375º F for 15 to 17 minutes, switching positions of the baking sheets halfway through.  The wafers should be lightly browned.  Remove the wafers from the oven and turn the broiler on high.  When the broiler is hot, broil the wafers about 5 inches from the heat, until the sugar begins to melt and caramelize, about 45 seconds.  Watch to make sure that they do not burn, which can happen in a flash.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool thoroughly.

Notes:
1.  In lieu of the starter, you can use any 8 ounce piece of raw yeasted dough, such as pizza dough or leftover bread dough.  Adjust the amount of flour used in the final dough accordingly.

Shameless Plug…

Sunday, September 27th, 2009

Let’s cut to the chase.  I have entered the Quick Weeknight Meals Contest over at The Kitchn, Apartment Therapy’s culinary sister website.  Please check out all the fantastic entries; people have put a lot of hard work into this one!

However, should you see fit to vote for my entry, and should I happen to win, I will absolutely make it worth your while by doing a giveaway of some of the prize (some fabulous gourmet food items) here on A Bread A Day.  Bribery?  Sure.  But I wouldn’t ask you to do something for me without a little quid pro quo, would I?  (Besides, you can vote for more than one entry, so I’m not taking anyone else’s votes away.)

Here’s a little sneak peek at my entry, Lentils with Ditalini:

lentils

Now go vote!  Vote vote vote!

Olive Parmesan No-Knead Bread

Saturday, September 26th, 2009

Week Thirty-Nine: No-Knead Bread Week

olive-parmesan-1

This last no-knead variation takes yesterday’s adaptation one step further: instead of simply adding different grains to subtly change the flavor, this version adds such generous amounts of parmesan and kalamata olives that the word “subtle” becomes truly ludicrous.

The one caveat here, of course, is to make sure you use both cheese and olive of good quality; if you do, you will be rewarded with a loaf vibrant with rich flavors.  Scrimp here, using that cardboard powder in the green-topped shaker or those poor black rings that emerge limp and pathetic from their can, and you’ll have insulted the very flour by suggesting it associate with such riff-raff.

Lest you hear this description and think you’ll be spending more to make this one loaf of bread than you might on a reasonably-priced bottle of wine, let me reassure you that there are some very fine and inexpensive options here.  While true Parmigiano-Reggiano would be exquisite in this application, the nuances of its delicate flavor would be a bit lost in baking; and besides, it often runs near $18 to $20 per pound.  I suggest reserving this for  grating over pasta, and seeking out something more like the nutty and buttery Argentine parmesan that my cheesemonger proffered, which cost less than half as much.

Keep in mind also that this bread, while quite delicious when made as the recipe is written, tends toward the indulgent, and no real harm could come from reducing the measure of cheese to fit the budget.  Better that than opting for an inferior cheese, I say.  And, of course, good-quality olives may be bought in bulk at many grocery stores these days, at a reasonable price.  You might even prefer the more concentrated taste of oil-cured olives, which taste like good olives turned up to eleven (meaning you can use fewer for just as much flavor punch).

This loaf ends up with a delightfully open crumb, especially considering the heft of the olives and cheese that could both weigh the bread down and make it more leaden.  The no-knead method, namely that long and gentle rise, gives the dough enough muscle to lift the added bulk with nonchalance.  The crust is not too thick and leathery, nor too thin and unable to stand up to the olives.  You’ll know that the parmesan is there not by sight, as the cheese melts invisibly into the structure of the bread, but by its unmistakable smell and taste.  A hint of whole wheat flour adds a little rustic texture to the crumb, which helps the texture better match the additions of cheese and olive.  Overall, this is a potent bread, and a great example of the no-knead method.

I hope you all have enjoyed this no-knead week as much as I have; it’s been nice to not have to clean my mixer every day.

olive-parmesan-2

Olive Parmesan No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Breadtopia
Makes 1 round loaf

13 ounces (2 3/4 cups) unbleached bread flour
3 ounces (2/3 cup) whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 tsp. instant yeast
7 ounces grated fresh parmesan cheese
4 ounces (about 2/3 cup) pitted kalamata olives, cut lengthwise into quarters
1 3/4 cup water, at room temperature

1.  In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, yeast, and salt.  Grate in the cheese, and toss to combine.  Add the olives and water, and stir until blended; the dough will be shaggy and sticky.  Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let dough sit at room temperature for at least 12 and up to 24 hours (but preferably about 18).

2.  The dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles.  Line a 10 inch skillet or any wide, shallow bowl with a large square of parchment paper.  Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself a few times, until it forms a roughly round shape.  A bench scraper helps greatly with this step.

3.  Transfer the dough to the parchment-lined skillet, and dust heavily with additional flour (or wheat bran, if you like).  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.  When it is ready, the dough will not readily spring back when poked gently with a fingertip.

4.  At least 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 500º F.  Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (see note 1 below) in oven as it heats, on a rack set to the lowest position.  When the dough is ready, carefully remove the pot from the oven.  Transfer the dough to the pot by lifting the parchment by the edges, and carefully and quickly lowering the dough into the pot.  Shake the pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed, but don’t worry about it too much; it will straighten out as it bakes.

5.  Cover the pot with the lid, and bake at 500º F for 30 minutes.  Reduce the temperature to 425º F, remove the lid, and bake uncovered for an additional 15 to 30 minutes, or until the loaf is well-browned.  An instant-read thermometer should register around 205º to 210º F when fully baked.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool thoroughly, discarding the parchment.

Notes:
1.  Any heavy covered pot will do, be it cast iron, enamel, Pyrex, stainless steel, or ceramic.  As long as it’s oven-safe, it seems anything will do the trick.  If your chosen vessel has no lid, or if you’re concerned about the oven-safety of it, simply use aluminum foil instead, pressing it tightly (and carefully) around the preheated pot.

2.  Be sure to use a good-quality parmesan cheese, as the flavor really shines here.

Multigrain No-Knead Bread

Friday, September 25th, 2009

Week Thirty-Nine: No-Knead Bread Week

multigrain-nkb-2

The next logical variation on this week’s theme is to see how this bread reacts to some additions.  I fully understand I’m not blazing any new territory here; but it’s something I’ve never tried for myself before.  Exciting!

The simplest addition you can make to any bread is to add different grains and seeds to the dough, so that’s the route I’m taking today.  This version remains a fairly light multigrain bread, mostly composed of white bread flour, but there’s a decent amount of whole wheat flour, with a handful of rye thrown in for complexity.  For me, though, the interesting part comes from the other additions, which can be whatever combination of grains or seeds you like best, or happen to have lying around.  Here, I’ve used a mixture of yellow millet, to pop between your teeth, hearty steel-cut oats (old-fashioned rolled oats would do just as well, but I prefer the more rustic texture of steel-cut), ground flaxseed for a nutty flavor throughout, and poppy seeds, with their sultry, dusky purple flavor.

To add some tang, there’s a touch of plain yogurt in the dough, which, like the use of white vinegar, helps replicate the acidic notes of a real wild-yeast sourdough.  Yogurt, being a dairy product, does help soften the crumb a little, though the effect here is slight.  More noticeable is the quite welcome sour flavor it lends, which is lovely in conjunction with the hint of rye flour.

The overall taste is nicely balanced between the pleasant coarseness of whole grains and the softness of a typical white bread, punctuated with the complementing flavors of poppy, flax, and oat.  The crust is perhaps thinner than the original no-knead bread, but not greatly.  A bite lands on your tongue with none of the dryness that plagues so many multigrain breads, leaving an almost creamy sweetness instead.  Though it wasn’t the tallest riser, that’s to be expected from such heavy additions as grains and seeds; it absolutely had a more open crumb than many other multigrain breads I’ve made.

Yes, this is one of the more successful no-knead variations I’ve yet seen, one that was well thought out in inception and actually follows through in execution.  Here, the no-knead method really shines, not interfering with the potential success of well-proportioned ingredients (and vice-versa), doing just what the method is intended to do: create a great loaf of bread with the minimum possible effort.  Thanks much to Breadtopia for the original recipe!

multigrain-nkb-1

yes, these pictures are all starting to look the same; I decided it'd be easiest to compare the different loaves this way

Multigrain No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Breadtopia
Makes 1 round loaf

12 ounces (2½ cups) unbleached bread flour, plus extra for dusting
3 ounces (2/3 cup) whole wheat flour
1 ounce (1/4 cup) rye flour
2 tablespoons ground flaxseed
2 tablespoons millet
1 tablespoon steel-cut oats
2 teaspoons poppy seeds
1½ teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1½ cups water
2 tablespoons plain yogurt

1.  In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, flaxseed, millet, oats, poppy seeds, salt, and yeast.  Add the water and yogurt, and stir until blended; the dough will be shaggy and sticky.  Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let dough sit at room temperature for at least 12 and up to 24 hours (but preferably about 18).

2.  The dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles.  Line a 10 inch skillet or any wide, shallow bowl with a large square of parchment paper.  Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself a few times, until it forms a roughly round shape.  A bench scraper helps greatly with this step.

3.  Transfer the dough to the parchment-lined skillet, and dust heavily with additional flour (or wheat bran, if you like).  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.  When it is ready, the dough will not readily spring back when poked gently with a fingertip.

4.  At least 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 500º F.  Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (see note 1 below) in oven as it heats, on a rack set to the lowest position.  When the dough is ready, carefully remove the pot from the oven.  Transfer the dough to the pot by lifting the parchment by the edges, and carefully and quickly lowering the dough into the pot.  Shake the pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed, but don’t worry about it too much; it will straighten out as it bakes.

5.  Cover the pot with the lid, and bake at 500º F for 30 minutes.  Reduce the temperature to 425º F, remove the lid, and bake uncovered for an additional 15 to 30 minutes, or until the loaf is well-browned.  An instant-read thermometer should register around 205º to 210º F when fully baked.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool thoroughly, discarding the parchment.

Notes:
1.  Any heavy covered pot will do, be it cast iron, enamel, Pyrex, stainless steel, or ceramic.  As long as it’s oven-safe, it seems anything will do the trick.  If your chosen vessel has no lid, or if you’re concerned about the oven-safety of it, simply use aluminum foil instead, pressing it tightly (and carefully) around the preheated pot.

Almost No-Knead Bread

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

Week Thirty-Nine: No-Knead Bread Week

almost-nkb-2

I do attract an astute crowd, don’t I?  A couple of sharp-minded readers totally predicted today’s recipe without even knowing it, in helpful response to the whole wheat no-knead bread fiasco.  For anyone who hasn’t tried it, this no-knead variation from Cook’s Illustrated is perhaps one of the most successful versions floating around; no wonder it came to their minds!

As someone who implicitly trusts Cook’s Illustrated (well, the old Cook’s Illustrated, anyway), I had to try this when I first saw it lo these many moons ago.  I remember being impressed then, and it did not disappoint this time either.  Addressing the two main complaints with the original no-knead bread, the too-thick crust and the mysterious lack of flavor, the wizards at Cook’s Illustrated tweaked the recipe a few ways.

First, they increased the oven preheating temperature, then reduce it as the loaf is put in the oven.  This initial blast of heat makes the crust set faster, and it therefore becomes thinner and more crisp than thick and chewy.  Second, to improve the flavor, they added a touch of vinegar and swapped some of the water for beer.  The vinegar, as you may recall from yesterday’s post, helps mimic the taste of a properly long-risen sourdough.  As for the beer, I previously deducedin a week of beer bread experiments that the malt in beer is extremely useful for flavor improvement.  (And it doesn’t hurt things that you’re now faced with the dilemma of disposing with the remaining 8 ounces of beer, either.)

Lastly, to improve upon the original no-knead bread, Cook’s Illustrated does the unthinkable: they knead the dough.  A bit!  Only just a bit!  (Hence the name.)  The kneading — obviously to anyone familiar with bread-making — develops the gluten.  In this particular case, it’s kneaded just barely enough to develop the gluten a tiny bit, and then time and natural fermentation processes take over.  This creates a more stable gluten network than is achieved without kneading; it isn’t kneaded to the point that the gluten becomes over-developed over the long rise, which would result in a tough and/or dense loaf.

The flavor of this almost no-knead bread is top notch, much improved over the original no-knead bread.  Though it’s not the most mind-blowing bread to ever grace my oven, it’s certainly quite good, and one I’d be proud to serve to guests.  (And at this point, I have a [bready] reputation to uphold.)  But then, Cook’s Illustrated didn’t set out to make the be-all, end-all of breads; they set out to enhance no-knead bread, and enhance it they have.

It’s hardly any more effort (is opening a beer effort?) than the original, and the results speak for themselves: complex, airy, crisp-crusted, gorgeously browned, crackling happily at you from the cooling rack….  This one has it all.  Give this variation a shot; I doubt you’ll look back.

almost-nkb

 

Almost No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated
Makes 1 large round

14 ounces (3 cups) unbleached bread flour
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1½ teaspoons table salt
3/4 cup (6 ounces) water, at room temperature
1/2 cup (4 ounces) mild-flavored beer
1 tablespoon white vinegar

1.  In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, yeast, and salt.  Add the water, beer, and vinegar, and stir until blended; the dough will be shaggy and sticky.  Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let dough sit at room temperature for at least 8 and up to 18 hours, or until very risen and bubbly.

2.  Line a 10 inch skillet or any wide, shallow bowl with a large square of parchment paper.  Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface; sprinkle it with a little more flour and knead or fold it over on itself about 10 to 15 times, until it forms a roughly round shape.  A bench scraper may help with this step.

3.  Transfer the dough to the parchment-lined skillet, and dust heavily with wheat bran or additional flour.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.  When it is ready, the dough will not readily spring back when poked gently with a fingertip.

4.  At least 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 500º F.  Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (see note 1 below) in oven as it heats, on a rack set to the lowest position.  When the dough is ready, carefully remove the pot from the oven.  Transfer the dough to the pot by lifting the parchment by the edges, and carefully and quickly lowering the dough into the pot.  Shake the pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed, but don’t worry about it too much; it will straighten out as it bakes.

5.  Cover the pot with the lid, place in the oven, and reduce the temperature to 425º F.  Bake covered for 30 minutes.  Remove the lid and bake uncovered for an additional 15 to 30 minutes, or until the loaf is well-browned.  An instant-read thermometer should register around 205º to 210º F when fully baked.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool thoroughly, discarding the parchment.

 

Notes:
1.  Any heavy covered pot will do, be it cast iron, enamel, Pyrex, stainless steel, or ceramic.  As long as it’s oven-safe, it seems anything will do the trick.  If your chosen vessel has no lid, or if you’re concerned about the oven-safety of it, simply use aluminum foil instead, pressing it tightly (and carefully) around the preheated pot.

 

PS - Happy National Punctuation Day to all my favorite punctuation marks!  I used as many as I could get away with today.  In honor of the day, here is an “appropriate” blog to “read”.

Quick No-Knead Bread

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

Week Thirty-Nine: No-Knead Bread Week

quick-nkb-2

Okay, you’re sold on this whole “no-knead bread” thing.  You’re ready to try it out.  Problem is, you’re never in one spot long enough to make it through the whole twenty-odd hour process.  Or maybe you just want a homemade loaf of bread, but can’t be bothered to channel your inner Martha Stewart to get it.  Either way, what you need is no-knead bread, made fast.

Lucky for you, there’s an easy way to speed the process up: add more yeast.  The genius behind the original no-knead bread is the tiny bit of yeast used.  This little amount will leaven the bread, eventually - yeast will continue to grow and multiply forever, as long as the food supply and living conditions remain available and stable - but with no-knead bread, it takes the yeast so long to do that, it gives the dough ample opportunity to form a proper gluten network.  If you were to form the gluten by kneading instead, it would be highly over-developed by the time that little bit of yeast grew enough to actually leaven the dough.

But wait, you may ask, if we just add more yeast to no-knead bread, how does the gluten have enough time to form properly?  Well, unless you knead the dough, it won’t.  And since kneading would defeat the titular purpose of no-knead bread, I think that’s unacceptable.  So how do we get more gluten?

We add it.

Enter Vital Wheat Gluten, a substance that looks an awful lot like regular flour, but less powdery.  The name is actually a misnomer, since it’s not really gluten.  It’s simply wheat flour with most of the starch washed out, leaving mostly protein.  It’s these proteins that, when mixed with water, form gluten.  (For contrast, vital wheat gluten contains around 70% to 80% protein, compared to 10% to 12% in all-purpose flour).  Adding a bit of vital wheat gluten to no-knead dough makes for more gluten in less time, which means we can use less yeast.  Problem solved, right?

Almost.  Another issue with making bread quickly is that you generally lose flavor, as the enzymes and acids that make for the highly complex taste of great bread need time to develop.  So if we’re losing some of that flavor, we can turn to the old wives’ trick of adding a touch of white vinegar to the dough, which mimics the acidic taste of a long-rising sourdough.  I’m not joking; it really works.  It’s not perfect, but it certainly goes a long way towards helping the flavor of an otherwise lackluster dough.

So how does this fast no-knead bread turn out?  Impressively, is how.  It only took about 3 hours to rise the first time, as compared to 18 to 20 for the original no-knead bread.  I gave it about an hour for the second rise, not far off from the original recipe; by that time, the yeast was so active that the dough more than doubled in size.  This made for a very tall loaf, with plenty of open holes in the crumb.

The crust was comparable to the original recipe, that is, slightly thick, but pleasantly so, and not rock-hard.  The flavor, though, surprised me the most; I think it was much improved over the original.  It tasted creamy and complex, belying the speed and ease with which it was made.  I prefer this to the original no-knead bread on many levels: it’s faster, it tastes better, and it has a better texture inside.  What more could you want?

quick-nkb

 

Quick No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Jim Lahey, via The New York Times
Makes 1 round loaf

14 ounces (3 cups) unbleached bread flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tablespoon vital wheat gluten (see note 2 below)
1 teaspoon instant yeast
1¼ teaspoons salt
1½ cups water
1 teaspoon white vinegar

1.  In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, vital wheat gluten, yeast, and salt.  Add the water and vinegar, and stir until blended; the dough will be shaggy and sticky.  Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let dough sit at room temperature for 3 to 4 hours, or until very risen and bubbly.

2.  Line a 10 inch skillet or any wide, shallow bowl with a large square of parchment paper.  Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself a few times, until it forms a roughly round shape.  A bench scraper helps greatly with this step.

3.  Transfer the dough to the parchment-lined skillet, and dust heavily with wheat bran or additional flour.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in size, about 1 to 1½ hours.  When it is ready, the dough will not readily spring back when poked gently with a fingertip.

4.  At least 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 450º F.  Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (see note 1 below) in oven as it heats.  When the dough is ready, carefully remove the pot from the oven.  Transfer the dough to the pot by lifting the parchment by the edges, and carefully and quickly lowering the dough into the pot.  Shake the pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed, but don’t worry about it too much; it will straighten out as it bakes.

5.  Cover the pot with the lid, and bake at 450º F for 30 minutes.  Remove the lid and bake uncovered for an additional 15 to 30 minutes, or until the loaf is well-browned.  An instant-read thermometer should register around 205º to 210º F when fully baked.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool thoroughly, discarding the parchment.

 

Notes:
1.  Any heavy covered pot will do, be it cast iron, enamel, Pyrex, stainless steel, or ceramic.  As long as it’s oven-safe, it seems anything will do the trick.  If your chosen vessel has no lid, or if you’re concerned about the oven-safety of it, simply use aluminum foil instead, pressing it tightly (and carefully) around the preheated pot.

2.  Vital wheat gluten may be found at some natural or health food grocery stores (such as Whole Foods), specialty baking shops, or online at King Arthur Flour or Amazon.  I used Bob’s Red Mill brand.

100% Whole Wheat No-Knead Bread

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

Week Thirty-Nine: No-Knead Bread Week

ww-nkb-1

[Oh my goodness, you guys!  I'm finally caught back up!]

Fixated as this nation is on whole-grain anything, the most logical variation on no-knead bread is to make a whole wheat version.  Normally, I would never try to adapt a white bread recipe to whole wheat by simply swapping all the white flour for whole wheat flour; this almost always results in a dense, flat bread, more suited to propping a door open than to eating.

The technical reasons are important here.  Whole wheat flour retains the bran of the wheat kernel, which essentially means that there are sharp little flakes in your dough.  As you knead, these sharp bits of bran act like tiny knives, cutting the gluten as it forms, under the pressure of your hand or dough hook.  Since it is the network of gluten that traps air in dough (giving you those lovely holes in the loaf), the lack of gluten means there is less air, meaning your bread comes out dense.

But!  In no-knead bread, the gluten isn’t formed by kneading, but by time and natural dough fermentation processes.  Ergo, if using whole wheat flour in a bread that requires no kneading, the gluten should gently form around the bran, as there is no pressure to force the bran through the gluten strands.  And when you do finally shape the loaf, the bran should have softened enough by absorbing water that it wouldn’t have the same knifely ability.

So, armed with this hypothesis, I swapped all the white flour for whole wheat.  Everything else stayed the same: yeast, salt, water, rising time, baking temperature, everything.  Result?

Good and not-so-good.  The good part was that I was right about the gluten and bran; there were indeed some very lovely holes in the crumb, bigger than you’d certainly expect from a 100% whole wheat bread.  But the not-so-good part was the flavor.  The lack thereof, actually.  The woeful lack thereof.  Familiar with the taste of wet cardboard?  You will be, after eating this bread.

The color turned an odd purpley shade (I don’t remember adding blueberries…), and the oven-spring was, shall we say, inadequate.  True, this flat, grayish bread did have a pleasant texture: barely coarse at all (though I do love a rustic, grainy bread), quite moist, with an appropriately sturdy crust.  But unless you’ve got ageusia and also happen to be blind, I don’t think you’ll appreciate this one much.

It’s not surprising that it reminded me of those ill-fated loaves of Grant Bread from a few weeks back; the methods are quite similar, though that recipe used more yeast.  Apparently, whole grain breads need something more than time and patience, which alone will improve nearly any white bread recipe.  This challenge certainly requires more study and perhaps a new approach; surely it can’t be that difficult to make a good no-knead whole grain bread.

Can it?

ww-nkb-2

 

100% Whole Wheat No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Jim Lahey, via The New York Times
Makes 1 round loaf

13½ ounces (3 cups) whole wheat flour, plus extra for dusting
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1¼ teaspoons salt
1½ cups water

1.  In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, yeast, and salt.  Add the water, and stir until blended; the dough will be shaggy and sticky.  Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let dough sit at room temperature for at least 12 and up to 24 hours (but preferably about 18).

2.  The dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles.  Line a 10 inch skillet or any wide, shallow bowl with a large square of parchment paper.  Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself a few times, until it forms a roughly round shape.  A bench scraper helps greatly with this step.

3.  Transfer the dough to the parchment-lined skillet, and dust heavily with wheat bran or additional flour.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.  When it is ready, the dough will not readily spring back when poked gently with a fingertip.

4.  At least 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 450º F.  Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (see note 1 below) in oven as it heats.  When the dough is ready, carefully remove the pot from the oven.  Transfer the dough to the pot by lifting the parchment by the edges, and carefully and quickly lowering the dough into the pot.  Shake the pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed, but don’t worry about it too much; it will straighten out as it bakes.

5.  Cover the pot with the lid, and bake at 450º F for 30 minutes.  Remove the lid and bake uncovered for an additional 15 to 30 minutes, or until the loaf is well-browned.  An instant-read thermometer should register around 205º to 210º F when fully baked.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool thoroughly, discarding the parchment.

 

Notes:
1.  Any heavy covered pot will do, be it cast iron, enamel, Pyrex, stainless steel, or ceramic.  As long as it’s oven-safe, it seems anything will do the trick.  If your chosen vessel has no lid, or if you’re concerned about the oven-safety of it, simply use aluminum foil instead, pressing it tightly (and carefully) around the preheated pot.

Original No-Knead Bread

Monday, September 21st, 2009

Week Thirty-Nine: No-Knead Bread Week

nkb

Oh, you knew it was coming sooner or later.  Did anyone really think I was going to go the whole year without acknowledging the biggest ever stir in the breadmaking blogosphere, the phenomenon (to use a tired descriptor) that launched a million ovens to unexplored panary shores?  Feh.

Does the world really need another treatise on no-knead bread?

No.  No, it does not.

*Gallic shrug*

It was quite amazing, the reaction to this simple recipe.  Within days of publication, hundreds of no-knead posts appeared across the internet, and that Thanksgiving in New York City, there was a run on Dutch ovens and instant yeast that lasted through Christmas.  My own father sent me the recipe, a man who has about as much interest in baking his own bread as a cat does: they might enjoy it very much, but it’s probably not going to happen.

No-knead bread got people baking, people who never thought they could bake bread in a million years.  But for every encouraged and justly-proud novice, there was a mean-spirited epicure in the background, sniffing above all the hubub, “It’s not that good.”

And really, when you get right down to it, that little snit has a point.  Don’t get me wrong, I think no-knead bread is fabulous for what it’s done, for the quality of bread it has brought to American home cooking.  But objectively speaking, perhaps the crust might be a mote too thick, perhaps the crumb could be more open, perhaps the flavor could be a bit more complex.  All these nitpicky things aside, you will perhaps never find a bread so easy to make that produces such excellent results.

nkb-2

Enough has been written about the characteristics of this bread, so I’ll spare you that much.  (Is anyone reading this blog really a stranger to no-knead bread?)  I have made modifications to the original recipe, namely that I use parchment instead of cloth as a couche for the dough to rise on.  Maybe I’m the only one, but I never seem to have luck rising bread on fabric, no matter how heavily floured.  It always sticks.  So I use parchment instead, which here has the added benefit of not having to flip fragile risen dough upside down into the precise center of a 450º F pot.  Forgive my impudence, but I can’t really imagine why you’d do it any other way.

Today, I’m featuring the original no-knead bread, with the aforementioned change in technique.  In the following days, I’ll discuss variations on that theme, for those of you who (like me) just can’t resist fixing what ain’t broke.  Stay tuned!

nkb-3

 

Original No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Jim Lahey, via The New York Times
Makes 1 round loaf

14 ounces (3 cups) unbleached bread flour, plus extra for dusting
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1¼ teaspoons salt
1½ cups water

1.  In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, yeast, and salt.  Add the water, and stir until blended; the dough will be shaggy and sticky.  Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let dough sit at room temperature for at least 12 and up to 24 hours (but preferably about 18).

2.  The dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles.  Line a 10 inch skillet or any wide, shallow bowl with a large square of parchment paper.  Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself a few times, until it forms a roughly round shape.  A bench scraper helps greatly with this step.

3.  Transfer the dough to the parchment-lined skillet, and dust heavily with wheat bran or additional flour.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.  When it is ready, the dough will not readily spring back when poked gently with a fingertip.

4.  At least 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 450º F.  Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (see note 1 below) in oven as it heats.  When the dough is ready, carefully remove the pot from the oven.  Transfer the dough to the pot by lifting the parchment by the edges, and carefully and quickly lowering the dough into the pot.  Shake the pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed, but don’t worry about it too much; it will straighten out as it bakes.

5.  Cover the pot with the lid, and bake at 450º F for 30 minutes.  Remove the lid and bake uncovered for an additional 15 to 30 minutes, or until the loaf is well-browned.  An instant-read thermometer should register around 205º to 210º F when fully baked.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool thoroughly, discarding the parchment.

 

Notes:
1.  Any heavy covered pot will do, be it cast iron, enamel, Pyrex, stainless steel, or ceramic.  As long as it’s oven-safe, it seems anything will do the trick.  If your chosen vessel has no lid, or if you’re concerned about the oven-safety of it, simply use aluminum foil instead, pressing it tightly (and carefully) around the preheated pot.

2.  If you don’t have bread flour on hand, you can certainly use all-purpose flour in its place.  In that case, you should use 13½ ounces instead (which still measures 3 cups).